diy puzzle game table

I did this for the rest of the holes, and I had much cleaner holes on both sides. What a perfect way to spend a day in the shade! Then, once turned upright, I placed the table top on top. Instead of only being able to screw the base into the 3 cross pieces of the table top frame, I was able to add several more screws into the cup holder support strips (see the first photo). I had to compromise between leg room and storage space, so I decided that I would come in 12" all around from the top. 1 year ago. Love the idea, my daughter used this idea to make a Lego table for her 3 year old! © 2020 WOODARD BATES MEDIA LLC • All Rights Reserved • Site by SB. This has a firm, but slightly giving playing surface that made it easier to pick up cards. No matter how much space you have, you can find a game table that works.

The base will likely be 18" x 30" (same height) and I won't have room for the criss-cross to still store a 12" game box. With the table top construction done, I sanded it all down before staining and urethaning the top. The playing surface was the easiest part, as it is just a sheet of plywood to play on. I can’t even imagine having had this table when my kids were little!

This would offer the greatest overall support for the top, as well as give us a central place to store our games. thats awesome! Can you explain how you built the riser wall? This yielded a base with the dimensions of 2' x 4', and 25" high. This size limit is the maximum size of the overall table, meaning to the outside edges of the armrests. At this stage, the last layer to add is the armrest. So, to cut the lengths of the riser wall pieces, I used the table frame as a guide. With this complete, I attached the 3/4"x2" poplar to it and then attached the combined piece to the table top frame making sure I centered it such that it stuck out 3/4" passed the end of the frame on each side. Finally, I used my router and a flush trim bit to trim the excess plywood away so that the plywood was the same size as the frame (this also helps account for any fluctuations from non-square/slightly warped frame wood). I hope it was thorough enough for you to follow if you decide to try your own hand at making one. For the shorter 2x4's, they were supposed to be 1.5' apart (for the 6' span). This. I just put a piece of masking tape on the drill bit to mark the hole depth (less than 3/4") and stopped drilling when the tape reached the wood surface. Lastly, I used 3/4" plywood in the base. By the way what is the name of the game displayed on the table in the first picture? Do you think this will compromise the strength of the base at all? I figured that it would be easier to drill the holes before assembly so that I didn't have to crawl inside a shelf cubby with the drill later on. Want a board game table that can be rolled away out of sight? And the cool thing is? Since I cut the slots with my circular saw, and I didn't go all the way to the end, the slots had a slight ramp up at the edges that followed the contour of the saw blade. Backyard Ideas on a Budget - Spruce Up Your Garden, Easy Christmas DIY Projects & Holiday Crafts. This worked pretty well, except some of the cards were a bit hard to pick up from the hard table surface (with the inset playing area, we couldn't slide the card to the edge of the table to pick it up). it is the only thing throwing me off?

I was going to put 2 cup holders in the same "drawer" in the middle of the 6' side of the table. When I had it positioned exactly how I wanted it, I reached under with a pencil and drew a line where the inside riser wall met the bottom of the armrest (remember that the armrest is 1/2" bigger than we actually want on the inside, so this overhangs the inside playing area as well). Here is where I think the extra 2x4's from the abandoned cup holder drawers came in handy. If we were to make this, we would simply paint on the letters since we don’t have a carving tool, but that would totally work too.

Since the span ended up being just 5'9", I adjusted a tiny bit. They give the family an opportunity to reconnect with each other, and in this world we live in, that’s a good thing.

This way, the recessed wall could sit on top of the playing surface and hold the outside wall in place (now is a good time to look at the photo). With the armrests being 3" wide, the recessed playing surface would be 3.5' x 5.5' (4' minus 3 inches on each end, 6' minus 3 inches on each side). So the cup holder solution is now an afterthought. So, the table top frame needs to be reduced by a further 1.5" in each dimension (the outside wall is 3/4" thick oak on each side).

You can see the number of screws used one of the photos of this step. No glue was used here, as I want the ability to separate the pieces to get it back out of the basement in the future. I actually tried using my router to make the dados, but that took way too long and created too much saw dust. So I decided to make my own. The visible area of the base is... the whole base. When you are all sitting around the dining table playing a board game, don’t you hate it when you have to ask another player on the opposite side to move your piece? This gives a final table top frame size of 3' 9" x 5' 9". I measured the length of one of the long sides.

You can probably just buy trim, but I had a piece of the 3/4"x4"x6' red oak lumber left over from a mistake I made earlier on. Note that I put comments on each piece of wood on the picture; I have noticed that the explanatory text on the picture doesn't show up unless you click on the picture itself ( you would still like more details after reading both sets of text, please let me know specific questions that you have, and I will do my best to address those. This is because the red oak lumber at my local big box store is available in 4', 6', and 8' lengths. What a great way to turn a patio into a family room space! So let’s encourage time together by creating our own board game tables, ok?

when I cut the slots in the top, I did not go all the way to the edge. Of course, 2 weeks of this time was just the staining and urethaning, as I waited a day between each coat to let it dry. The 3" armrests will overhang the outside wall of the table by 3/4". I didn't want the stain to be too dark, so I only did 2 coats of that. Again, for structural support, 3/4" plywood would be the way to go. Check out all the instruction on how to make this board game table at ‘Homemade by Carmona’. Your email address will not be published. We know you will also love our posts Amazing Repurposed Dresser Ideas, DIY Backyard Games and DIY Outdoor Christmas Decorations over on TGG, and Fun Phone Games to Play With Friends over on OhMeOhMy! The visible wood of the table top is comprised of the playing surface, the walls of the recessed area, the outside walls, and the armrests. Because its actual dimension is 3/4" x 1.5", it adds 1.5" to the overall height of the table top. Once the construction was complete, I sanded everything down before staining and urethaning it all. It actually looks like wall art! So, I cut a 3/4" slot in half of the criss piece, and another 3/4" slot in the cross piece. I have a mock-up photo at the end of this step of what I am thinking. Love, love, love. To assemble the table top, I had 4 layers: The frame of the table is made out of 2x4's. This amazing DIY coffee table with pullout trays does everything! These large cup holders made the drawer around 11" wide, plus mounting hardware.

I cut the strip of poplar and mounted that to the outside rise piece and then attached it to the table with wood and screws.

We used to use the kitchen table, but sometimes it wasn't quite big enough to hold all the game components, sometimes pieces/cards would fall off the edge of the table, and sometimes games … Don’t you hate the idea of starting to work on a puzzle, only to know you will have to put it away long before you are finished so dinner can be served? I really appreciate the clarity and absence of expensive tools (that I don't have).I don't have the space for 4' x 6' so I am instead going to do 3' x 4'. Then I cut that to length so that it fit tightly between them for a nice inset butt joint. Smash Up (card game) is another one that is becoming a favorite. I ended up making the top piece quite over-sized; large enough to meet up with the 3' cup holder supports that I installed but abandoned later on. I placed the final long 2x4 in the middle of that (~1'10.5"). I am now leaning towards making individual cup holders that will hook over the armrest and are thus not permanent. I used 3/4" x 4" red oak for this, too. Required fields are marked *.

That is a great amount of surface area for the glue to hold when the armrest is added, and still gives us the 3/4" overhang that was desired.

So, buying 4' and 6' boards were perfect; I just had to miter each end at 45 degrees. Thank you very much.

Turn a cheap Ikea Lack table into a kid’s board game table with this simple and fast tutorial from ‘DIY Network’. Your table looks great! I think I will try to glue a thin layer of cork on the inside edges of the "hook" so that the armrests don't get scratched. However, I really wanted to get the table done before the weather got too cold to stain and seal in the garage. But, also again, my table top will sit on a pedestal-type base, which provides constant support under most of the table. This DIY giant Scrabble board from ‘Jen Woodhouse’ is wall mounted, and the perfect way to have way more fun than should be legal in your family room. When you compare board games to computer games, people who are playing board games laugh more, talk more, exchange more…And let’s face it, we all need a place to play our games that doesn’t include the kitchen table. Note to self, and you, dear reader: put a scrap piece of wood under the piece you are drilling all the way through. The legs of the lack table unscrew easily, so the whole table … I did have to nail the trim onto the based to hold it long enough for the glue to dry. It had to be relatively inexpensive (under $400), It had to be achievable with just hand-held power tools, It had to have a place to store all of our games, It had to come apart to get it into/out of the basement, Seven 2"x4"x8' boards; plain wall framing kind, (Optional) Roll of 3mm neoprene rubber mat with nylon on one side [~$80 additional], Two sheets of 3/4-inch red oak plywood (4'x8'), (Optional) One 3/4"x4"x6' red oak lumber for trim.

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